Get to Le Chêne on Carmine Road earlier than the one-percenters come again from the Hamptons.
Illustration: Naomi Otsu
Welcome to Grub Road’s rundown of restaurant suggestions that goals to reply the endlessly recurring query The place ought to we go? These are the spots our meals workforce thinks everybody ought to go to — for any purpose (a brand new chef, the arrival of an thrilling dish, or possibly there’s a gap that has flown too far underneath the radar). This month: extra new French, extra new pizza, extra new pasta, and one other all-day café in Brooklyn. And guess what? They’re all unbelievable.
Fortunate Charlie (Bushwick)
Nino Coniglio is a Brooklyn-pizza lifer. He known as Dom DeMarco a mentor, opened his first spot in Marine Park in 2009, and helped kick off the slice-shop revival with Williamsburg Pizza. Now, he’s in Bushwick with Fortunate Charlie, which he and his spouse, Shealyn Sharleen Model, opened together with the Sicily-born, Bushwick-raised Charlie Verde. The restaurant’s namesake, Verde runs an importing firm and owns the constructing, the place he beforehand ran a pizzeria after discovering a coal oven that’s, apparently, historical historical past. On opening evening, he was holding court docket at a four-top, riffing in Italian with mates who had flown in from Italy. Inside, it seems like a social membership everybody belongs to. Anelletti is baked in a ceramic bowl sealed with pizza dough, meant to be dipped within the wealthy ragù, and a focaccia bread board comes with sufficient mashed anchovies to fill the Adriatic. Pies are super-crisp however not too inflexible, harking back to spots like the unique Patsy’s, the mozzarella baked arduous into contemporary tomato sauce. The choices are conventional (basic, white, and crimson), and the companions are promising to burn coals late into the evening. —Chris Crowley
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Bottega (Crown Heights)
This café from the house owners of the East Village osteria Maretta feels virtually Angeleno: Sandwiches recall these of Wax Paper’s, delicately overstuffed and prepared for a close-up. A tomato sandwich, layered with cucumber ribbons, pickles, sprouts, horseradish, and mascarpone, lets tomato shine whereas nonetheless feeling adventurous. And you could possibly technically name the tuna sandwich a soften, however its variously pickled accoutrements — crimson onion, artichokes sott’olio, peperoncini, capers — make it one thing extra. The most effective order for this sweltering climate, nonetheless, may be the green-goddess farro salad, stuffed with peas, ricotta, and hazelnuts for crunch. Although Bottega presently closes at 4 p.m., a spritz-heavy cocktail menu hints at a future past breakfast and lunch. —Zach Schiffman
Chez Nous (Greenwich Village)
The foyer restaurant of the Marlton Lodge, after opening with fanfare in 2016, had these days settled into sleepy disuse. It was a great place to carry a fast espresso assembly, if solely as a result of it was reliably quiet and undersubscribed. However New York real-estate regulation mandates that which is momentarily vacant will likely be swiftly revised. The literary agent David Kuhn has partnered with the lodge’s Sean MacPherson to jazz up the joint, which has now returned as Chez Nous. Our place? Positive, if the visitor checklist consists of the very linked Kuhn’s mates (like artists Hugo Guinness, who designed the brand new emblem, and Cecily Brown, who contributed an ideal mural within the again eating room). Kuhn’s life companion, the manufacturing designer Kevin Thompson, has redone the eating room in nouveau-Parisian fashion, and Flossie Gilles, previously of Le Bilboquet, the bistro-leaning menu. She does a really good quarter-chicken (served, extra lushly than most within the metropolis, with pommes purées and “escargot sauce”), and there’s a Roquefort-topped burger, however, this being New York, additionally a GLP-1-friendly “vegetarian niçoise” and a Palm Seaside salad of shrimp and avocado, though right here we name it not Palm Seaside however Saint-Tropez and ship it overseas with cured fennel, preserved lemon, and massive inexperienced Castelvetranos. —Matthew Schneier
Le Chêne (West Village)
One of many much less appreciated traditions of summer season is staying within the metropolis whereas one-percenters take their households and sophistication nervousness out of city. Which means now’s the time to get to this small extraordinarily polished spot from the chef Alexia Duchêne and her husband, Ronan Duchêne Le Might. To match the white tablecloths and burgundy-red banquettes, Duchêne cooks within the French-luxury mould however is just not valuable about her presentation: Rosy rack of lamb is solely sauced, whereas roasted squab is quartered earlier than it’s served with bits of foie gras and morels. Inexperienced beans, battered and fried and meant to be dipped in tarragon yogurt, appear to be on each desk, as does the home pithivier, a dome of pastry lidding over pork sausage and eel. Matthew Schneier, a colleague who is aware of way more about grand crus than I ever will, says the wine checklist is a marvel. I’d say the identical a couple of peach tart that appeared for dessert, easy and beautiful. Go earlier than all of the well-heeled Francophiles are again on the town. I’m guessing will probably be unattainable to get a desk this fall. —Alan Sytsma
Osteria Radisa (Carroll Gardens)
No one would have stated this stretch of Brooklyn wanted one other Italian restaurant, however this one has introduced a definite Adriatic breeze to a Smith Road nook. The menu is hearty from the beginning with baccalà mantecato — salt cod whipped with potatoes, raisins, olives, and pine nuts — strewn with tender escarole and sufficient croutons to face in for the standard bread on the facet. Lamb spiedini are wrapped in caul fats and are available on a base of stewed chicories imbued with olive oil; braised greens are a recurring theme, like Swiss chard on high of crisp branzino that’s bathing in an emulsion of uncooked tomatoes. Pastas are one other spotlight: Oregano oil and garlic scapes sauce eight large ricotta-stuffed ravioli verdi, and cappellacci is stuffed with shredded beef cheek earlier than being topped with beech mushrooms coated in wealthy, sticky gravy and a drizzle of Parmigiano cream. —Tammie Teclemariam
EAT LIKE THE EXPERTS.
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