Get to Bartolo!
Illustration: Naomi Otsu
Welcome to Grub Avenue’s rundown of restaurant suggestions that goals to reply the endlessly recurring query: The place ought to we go? These are the spots that our meals crew thinks everybody ought to go to, for any cause (a brand new chef, the arrival of an thrilling dish, or possibly there’s a gap that’s flown too far below the radar). This month: tripe, rice balls, Wienerschnitzel, and Peruvian canchita.
Arrigo’s of Contemporary Pond (Ridgewood)
By day, it is a sandwich store the place eggplant parm is glazed with Pecorino cream, and evening brings a dinner menu to fulfill all their ambitions too huge to suit between halves of a semolina loaf. There’s Pet-Nat on the tidy wine checklist and a menu that steers away from easy red-sauce nostalgia. Crudo could be ruddy bluefin tuna or thick slices of scallop in a cold, nearly icy green-tomato dashi. Plump cacio e pepe rice balls are full of cheese. A sugar-snap salad with endive and mint will get frivolously dressed with labneh. The ragù over rigatoni is rib-sticking, however there’s no resisting the sakura pork chop, its craggily, shattering crust defending juicy, nonetheless rosy meat. We acquired each desserts. A cup of sentimental serve got here with pine nuts enjoying the position of sprinkles, and the winner was wealthy budino below a cover of torched meringue. —Chris Crowley
Tortelli (Carroll Gardens)
Because the climate chills a bit, there could also be no extra in-demand tables than the 4 sitting exterior at this new Carroll Gardens pasta store from the chef behind LaRina and Briscola. The titular tortelli is available in a really buttery pesto, whereas cavatelli is bathed in a sugo of heirloom tomatoes. Some gadgets, nonetheless, are unique to the dine-in expertise, like contemporary frizzled snap peas served over ricotta with croutons. Consuming at Tortelli seems like overindulging on the farmers’ market — with out the work of cooking. To complete off the home really feel, there are reasonably priced wines accessible by the glass or the bottle. —Zach Schiffman
All of Our Picks, Mapped
See the Map
Café Brume (Brooklyn Heights)
If Brooklyn Heights is the Swiss canton of NYC — lovely, historic, impartial — it solely is smart that an Alpine café would select to settle there. Brume, within the area that after held neighborhood establishment Teresa’s and has appeared a bit of cursed since that closure, has the dark-wood rafters and stripped-down chandeliers of an après-ski chalet, and a menu of spaetzle, schnitzel, and trout. This type of elegant however however rib-sticking cooking didn’t fairly match its summertime opening, however now that fall approaches, the vibe feels proper. I loved the appropriately crust-bubbled Wienerschnitzel with bay-leaf spaetzle and chilly marinated cucumbers, and the thematically applicable wines (Swiss Chasselas, Austrian Blaufränkisch) by not solely the glass, however the half-glass. Chef Ian Anderson, who has cooked at Le Coucou, is operating the kitchen, although I’ll additionally have an interest, within the interregnum of delicate days between summer time warmth and late-fall cool, in charcuterie and cheese with just a few hunks of Laurel Bakery bread on the restaurant-length bar. — Matthew Schneier
Bartolo (West Village)
In our Consuming New York publication, I’ve beforehand expressed my admiration for Bartolo’s very small bar and its very massive bowls of egg-topped garlic French fries. Right here is why I believe your complete restaurant is the place to be this fall: The bifurcated, low-ceilinged eating room — the again half of which may be closed off for personal occasions — feels prefer it may have been inbuilt 1955 ( a great factor), and chef Ryan Bartlow’s menu is a delicate, luxurious improve of the cooking that helped make his identify at his different spot, Ernesto’s. It contains golden nuggets of salt cod to be dipped in thick mayonnaise (not aioli, we have been firmly knowledgeable); platters of jamón Ibérico with custom-stamped crackers baked in Spain; big steaks and entire suckling pigs (the latter of which may be ordered weeks prematurely); and bowls of long-stewed, soul-warming tripe. The largest factor Bartolo has going for it, and which is lacking from so many different throwback clubhouses, can also be the toughest to copy: Bartolo’s acquired an actual, trustworthy perspective. —Alan Sytsma
Nuyores (Greenwich Village)
Peruvians will decide a restaurant by the standard of its canchita, a free dish of toasted corn that tastes like a cross between popcorn and corn nuts. All one of the best locations make their very own, and Nuyores, which has simply opened in Greenwich Village, is in that league, crunchy salted husks giving method to ethereal starch. Canchita can also be a garnish alongside candy yellow kernels and hulking hominy in ceviche garnished with frizzled strands of aji limo. The chef, who beforehand ran Contento in Harlem till it closed in December, paints with a rainbow of South American peppers: Rocoto beurre blanc’s ripe, meaty taste is pleasantly rounded with wine and butter in a sauce for Peruvian potatoes with a thick, uncommon tuna steak. The “causa tater tot,” based mostly on the layered potato salad, is definitely a fist-size hash brown with an equal portion of crab salad, held along with simply sufficient salsa golf, a doctored ketchup-mayo combine, and a jammy quail egg. They’re becoming dishes for the burrowlike room — final seen because the short-lived Il Totano — newly outfitted with dusky wall textiles and darkish leather-based banquettes that make it an area the place you’re completely satisfied to linger over a glass of Carménère. —Tammie Teclemariam
EAT LIKE THE EXPERTS.
Join the Grub Avenue publication.
Vox Media, LLC Phrases and Privateness Discover
See All