Titán is a welcome addition to Dumbo’s tourist-driven eating scene.
Illustration: Naomi Otsu
Welcome to Grub Road’s rundown of restaurant suggestions that goals to reply the endlessly recurring query: The place ought to we go? These are the spots our meals staff thinks everybody ought to go to for any motive (a brand new chef, the arrival of an thrilling dish, or perhaps a gap that’s flown too far underneath the radar). This month: an enthralling redo on Macdougal, a hidden cantina in Dumbo, and a brasserie that’s risen, phoenixlike, from the ashes of its wood-burning grill.
Pizza 4P’s (Greenpoint)
Japanese-influenced pizzerias are immediately in every single place, however Pizza 4P’s — with roots in Japan and 40 outposts throughout Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia, and India — nonetheless deserves your consideration. Each location is designed otherwise with the primary NYC retailer drawing heavy inspiration from the calmness of the outside. Seasonal inexperienced salads are piled artfully with hyperlocal upstate veg and tossed in a satisfyingly oniony dressing. Then it’s onto pizza: Any choice that highlights the restaurant’s recent, home made burrata is a winner, and if you happen to’re feeling like making an attempt one thing new, a pie with lotus root, pork salsiccia, and sesame hummus is funky in all the precise methods. —Shay Cohen
Kome Nori (Park Slope)
Although it seems like a Park Slope Japanese restaurant with the identical wall paneling as each podcast studio, Kome Nori punches far above its weight. The $79 Kome Kosu six-course set menu is a good worth that options a number of snacks to begin (I’d gladly order the crunchy, smoky octopus cucumber salad à la carte), candy black-miso cod, a DIY hand roll, and eight items of fusion sushi — like branzino over rice with a touch of pesto — that felt sufficiently formidable for a neighborhood spot. Quirks right here abound, like a choose-your-own funky sake glass, and it jogged my memory, surprisingly, of the close by Café Mars: simply out-there sufficient to maintain every little thing attention-grabbing. —Zach Schiffman
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Titán (Dumbo)
Simply previous the Grimaldi’s vacationer crowds, 5 Entrance Road has lengthy been a neighborhood Mexican spot hiding in plain sight: The lights went out at Gran Electrica on the finish of 2024, however now, after a quick interlude as a Swedish restaurant, the area is Mexican once more. Titán comes courtesy of Alan Delgado (who runs the much-loved Los Burritos Juárez), one in all quite a few locations making the renewed case for glorious flour tortillas in New York. (Ivy Mixture of Whoopsie Daisy handles the concerned cocktails.) All the things here’s a clear enchancment from the realm’s restricted, takeout-burrito-forward choices: We loved a tacky volcán, a volcano-shaped corn tortilla toasted and loaded like a single nacho, and Cheeto-orange deep-fried chile rellenos. Among the many tacos, the suadero has a pleasant offal tang, and the flour tortillas are pretty much as good as ever, with one good shock: The corn ones aren’t unhealthy, both. —Matthew Schneier
Saverne (Hudson Yards)
Wait, weren’t we speaking about this place — Gabriel Kreuther’s more-approachable new brassiere with an emphasis on wooden grilling — months in the past? Sure, nevertheless it was solely open for a handful of days earlier than a hearth put it out of fee. It has now reopened, hopefully for good this time, with simply as a lot polish utilized to its bifurcated area (a big open entrance bar room and a again eating room that stretches the size of the lengthy open kitchen) as earlier than. The meals is technically exact within the traditional Michelin-targeting method however hardly valuable. Begin with any of Kreuther’s justifiably well-known tartes flambée and something that leans meaty — truffled liverwurst or morcilla that’s fried into golden croquettes — after which get a bunch of stuff that’s flamed on the grill, like a strip loin of bison or, particularly, thick slices of pork stomach that can immediately remind you why it was each chef’s favourite protein again within the early 2000s. —Alan Sytsma
Somssi (Greenwich Village)
Candlelit tables behind gauzy cottage curtains make for a comfy hideout off Macdougal Road, however Somssi’s menu will not be as shabby stylish as its décor. (This area was beforehand the short-lived Acru, in any case.) “Potato, potato, potato, caviar” — this summer time’s most Instagrammable dish — is a $32 sourdough-dusted bar of pommes purée wound with shoestrings that fries right into a crunchy nest for a quenelle of caviar. The mash is mounted with sufficient butter to ooze like starchy lava onto a whipped layer of miso hollandaise, all of which calls for a glass of bubbles from the thoughtfully annotated wine listing. Order it between programs of scallop crudo energized with celery and makrut-scented rhubarb juice and ox tongue with romesco and wasabi, which is short-rib tender beneath its heavy sear. All that richness was tempered by a pour of full-bodied sake and a aspect of pickle, although anybody nonetheless brief on “potato” can full the meal with an order of furikake-dusted fries. —Tammie Teclemariam
EAT LIKE THE EXPERTS.
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