New York subscribers acquired unique early entry to this story in Consuming New York, a e-newsletter that includes meals information and recommendation straight from our critics’ mouths. Enroll right here to get it in your inbox.
A plate of spaghetti and a mug of Manhattan Particular at Ferdinando’s Focacceria.
Photograph: Joe Buglewicz/Redux
After working for 12 a long time at 151 Union Road, the abrupt, late-February closure of Ferdinando’s Focacceria got here as a shock to many who knew the Carroll Gardens establishment for its back-home-style Sicilian classics like panelle; stuffed, sun-dried tomatoes; and the Vastedda, a spleen-and-ricotta sandwich. Many additionally questioned what would occur to the house, a historic constructing brimming with recollections. This week, we acquired our reply: longtime proprietor Frank Buffa handed the torch to Sal Lamboglia, the chef behind the close by Cafe Spaghetti, Swoony’s, and Sal Tang’s. We caught up with Lamboglia, who, along with celebrating the announcement, is anticipating his third little one “any day now.”
Have been you even considering of opening one other restaurant?
I’m all the time trying round. Persons are all the time calling me. I’m all the time interested by taking a gathering and seeing what’s on the market. This quickly? No. In order that got here as a shock.
I heard that you just had been chosen by Frank.
Frank known as me this morning. I assume a radio station had simply known as him and requested about it, in order that information got here from him. He’s like, “I’m simply letting you realize that they known as me at this time.” I’m not gonna do a Sicilian accent, his is famous, and my mother and father grew up in Naples and I do know all of the accents, however he mentioned, “I simply wished to allow them to know that I picked you since you’re a very good man.” He mentioned some very nice issues, it was particular.
We knew one another. We clearly had locations on the identical block, however the quantity of people that knew each of us — I imply, I acquired 200 messages at this time that mentioned, “we love Frank, we love you, we’re so excited!” So it’s like I knew him for a very long time. Now we’re like finest associates.
How did you discover out that the house was accessible? Did you method Frank after the closing?
I didn’t method him. I had a extremely good pal and neighborhood common attain out to me some time again and say “Frank wished me to say to you in case you’d be interested by taking on Fernando’s,” and I mentioned completely. However I didn’t attain again out to Frank. I simply waited for him. After all, I used to be ready and freaking out. I informed my spouse about it. However on the subject of this location, there’s no dealer. It was simply Frank deciding for himself. So this state of affairs was actually particular the place his choice was solely gonna be made by him and nobody else.
It’s positively a passing of the crown second. Do you are feeling such as you’re prepared for the stature? Are you ready to be there for 100 years?
I hope so. I’m smiling from ear to ear. It’s an honor. I’m large with household historical past, and naturally, Italian tradition, antiques and outdated pictures. He’s acquired a lot of that inside there that I’m gonna maintain. It signifies that a lot to me and to the entire neighborhood much more so.
Sounds such as you’ll be doing a historic renovation. It’s such an outdated house, although, I’m certain you’ll want to clear it up.
Sure. Paint and do all that stuff. I put myself in Frank’s footwear for a second and all of the issues that he has on the wall and has glued to the showcase — there’s this flower pot with pretend lemons popping out of it, and I wish to transfer it, however I spotted that it was glued to the glass showcase, in order that’s the place it would stay ceaselessly. The bones are wonderful, it’s such a particular place. Nevertheless it wants a pleasant little face-lift, so we’ll be doing a few of that.
Is there a fireplace in there?
No, there’s an outdated hearth that’s not working, however it may be working.
Will you maintain on to something from the earlier menu? Did the restaurant include a cookbook?
All of it simply occurred actually, actually rapidly. It wasn’t like in my different eating places the place I went to go see the place 4 or 5 instances and sit down and I knew what I used to be getting. This isn’t like that. I don’t actually know but. I’m certain that there shall be issues from their menu. I’m simply attempting to determine in what capability and what model.
One factor that I’ll say, which implies rather a lot to me, is Frank already mentioned we are able to make a few dishes collectively each time I would like. So I’m hoping to get that on the books within the subsequent couple of weeks, the place we are able to make a few issues that he treasured, which after all is like so cool, proper?
Yeah, you’re gonna should movie these and go them on or one thing.
It’s so particular. I didn’t suppose he was gonna say that, however he mentioned “If you wish to make the panelle, we make it collectively.”
The tripe stew is an enormous one.
In Naples, they promote tripe on the road. They minimize it with scissors, it’s so aggressive like that. No one right here actually needs it identical to boiled and steamed with lemon. However I’ve made so many variations of tripe stew over time: at Locanda Verde, on the Dutch with Fritos. I really like making tripe. It’ll be there in some unspecified time in the future.
Now that you’ve a number of Italian eating places in the identical neighborhood, what are you going to do to tell apart this one?
This one is gonna be … I don’t even know but, nevertheless it’s not gonna be like Cafe Spaghetti. No matter it’s, it’s gonna be totally different and I’m in. It’s been enjoyable. I simply jumped into that stage once more of determining what to do and the way I’m gonna do it, so I’m having fun with the entire course of now. There are such a lot of issues that I wanna do. It’s so particular for me, taking it over and signing it and being within the house.
Join Consuming New York
Weekly meals information, straight from our critics’ mouths and only for subscribers.
Vox Media, LLC Phrases and Privateness Discover
See All