Can a diner be 86’d upfront? That’s the interpretive riddle on the coronary heart of the Eighty Six, the brand new tenant on the forever-infamous former Chumley’s at 86 Bedford Road within the West Village. Chumley’s, which operated by way of Prohibition, is claimed to be the birthplace of the phrase “getting 86’d,” as in getting tossed out — within the unhealthy outdated days, the destiny of too-drunk patrons by way of Chumley’s aspect door, the higher to not appeal to the eye of the police.
The Eighty Six has now moved into this haunted, hallowed area, which has performed host to a succession of institutions making an attempt to capitalize on its historical past. The heavy inexperienced door with the peephole behind a metallic grille endures, and even its very title recollects its ancestor. However don’t fear about getting kicked out. You most likely gained’t get in.
Eugene Remm, the impresario behind the Catch eating places and a associate within the (likewise closely defended) Nook Retailer, took over the situation after its earlier occupant, the trollish Frog Membership, self-86’d in December. The Eighty Six is a small restaurant — 35 seats complete, together with the bar — so some discretion on behalf of administration is critical to manage the gang, however even by the requirements of New York’s strictest doorways, the Eighty Six is borderline impenetrable. Reservations are theoretically obtainable on-line however hover, like Tantalus’ fruit, ceaselessly out of attain. Stroll-ins are welcome to strive their luck on the door, however the two girls who approached forward of me on a Monday evening seeking bar seats have been summarily turned away. I used to be capable of broach the perimeter myself solely as a ride-along with a better-connected visitor and, even then, solely as soon as, relatively than the a number of occasions customary earlier than writing a evaluation. I’m making an exception right here as a result of I doubt I’ll be invited again. That night, Remm was circling the eating room, chitchatting and shaking fingers, and he all however confirmed that the place capabilities like a members-only membership. “I do know everyone within the room,” he stated when visiting our desk (although he didn’t appear to acknowledge me). “That is the course New York goes.”
I’m sorry to say I agree. The Eighty Six’s shtick is swank. The décor is vintage mirrors and velvet, and the finger meals is caviar croquettes. The bar is tiny, and a crackling hearth does a lot to set the tone, turning down the raucousness. (There’s a scorching “honeymoon desk” tucked simply to the aspect of it.) On the Nook Retailer, the early patronage of celebrities — Taylor Swift was a repeat visitor — ensured its standing as a vacation spot. The burden of expectation hangs heavy at this follow-up, the place followers have made the early pilgrimage, Swift amongst them. “It’s the very same clientele,” a server advised us.
The Eighty Six affords the temper of a non-public membership and steakhouse-appropriate twists like a Philly cheesesteak and a “creamed corn pot pie.” Hugo Yu.
The Eighty Six affords the temper of a non-public membership and steakhouse-appropriate twists like a Philly cheesesteak and a “creamed corn pot pie.” H… extra
The Eighty Six affords the temper of a non-public membership and steakhouse-appropriate twists like a Philly cheesesteak and a “creamed corn pot pie.” Hugo Yu.
Michael Vignola, the longtime culinary director at Catch Hospitality Group, oversees each. The Eighty Six is just not with out its TikTok bait, like a bread-and-butter martini (butterfat-washed vodka served with bread and butter) and a juiced-up Philly cheese-steak, however the emphasis right here, as at most of the different new swank-staurants, is steak. Our server assured us we have been getting the very best and the rarest. Each reduce comes with its personal dateline and provenance — Aberdeen, South Dakota; Ennis, Texas; Queensland, Australia — and the restaurant even claims an unique on sure kilos of flesh. “Nobody however us has entry to vaca vieja,” our server confided, nodding at a large hunk of marbled beef. Let the plebs content material themselves with merely dry-aged specimens. The Eighty Six is the one place providing this bespoke crossbreed, “outdated cow.”
Outdated cow that I’m, I discover the give attention to (principally) conventional preparations interesting. Classics are classics for a purpose, and whereas they’re not indestructible, they’re sturdy sufficient to resist the winds of pattern huffing and puffing on the grille-hatched door. A Caesar salad is principally a Caesar salad anyplace, and the one right here is not any exception; I most well-liked its twist (olive-focaccia croutons, why not) to what the salad endures on the Nook Retailer (fried balls of cream cheese, why). Vignola is a time-tested professional who can oversee a crew grilling steaks capably and at costs which might be typically much less offensive than at loads of different haute beeferies round city. (The ground is about by a $38 skirt; the ceiling is “market value.”)
What he can’t do is make miracles. An MP’d entrée of untamed Dover sole ($125 on our night) was powerful and overly acidulated by its lemon tub. That sole wished to be meunièred — its delicate flesh bathed in butter within the true French vogue— however as a substitute it’s provided “barely touched.” It’s not exhausting to guess why: Throughout us, the 11 tables of the eating room have been stuffed with wizened males and lineless youthful girls, a sauce-on-the-side constituency. Even the extra lavish preparations are portioned with restraint in thoughts. A mid-course pasta with spicy lobster sauce is plated with solely three ounces of spaghetti, the higher to impose moderation. My favourite steak on the Eighty Six was a petite six-ounce portion of deckled rib cap, served small in deference to the richness of the fatty meat. “You don’t need extra,” Remm stated.
Don’t I? I feel I’d. A steakhouse was as soon as a spot to dig in, a logy indigestion proof of buy. Chumley’s was a spot to get tanked even when getting tanked was a legal offense and to be 86’d an affirmation you’d been overserved. Perhaps these are wiser days, if leaner ones. Then once more, possibly not. It feels, for higher or worse, precisely as Remm says: the way in which New York goes. “This place meets the second,” considered one of my dinner companions noticed. “And we’re not the second.”
Scratchpad
The Eighty Six
Give It a Shot
Nonetheless need to strive getting in with out an in? Remm says the very best wager is to reach proper at 5 p.m. — and intention for the few bar seats.
And Then Shoot Away
Frog Membership famously banned images inside and stickered diners’ telephones to forestall them. Not right here: Hearth up the digital camera app.
And Add a Sidepiece
The restaurant is pleased with its “creamed corn pot pie” with a laminated-pastry crust. Complement it with sautéed, relatively than creamed, spinach.
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For those who favor to learn in print, you may also discover this text within the December 1, 2025, concern of
New York Journal.
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For those who favor to learn in print, you may also discover this text within the December 1, 2025, concern of
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