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Madeline Money’s Grub Road Food plan
New-York News

Madeline Money’s Grub Road Food plan

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Last updated: February 7, 2026 2:26 pm
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Illustration: Sarah Kilcoyne

Madeline Money’s debut novel, Misplaced Lambs, tells the story of a contemporary American household: semi-estranged mother and father in an ill-fated open relationship and three teen daughters with web boyfriends and harmful connections to the tech billionaire up the highway. The e book made such a splash when it was printed final month — “vivid, breezy prose alight with informal wit,” mentioned The New Yorker; “the comedian novel we want proper now,” declared the Washington Put up — that a couple of readers theorized that she was an trade plant of some form. Money laughs off that concept. “I grew up with a single mom, and she or he was a hospice nurse at a convent,” she says. “If somebody is pulling the strings behind the scenes, I’m not aware about it.” After I discuss to Money simply after her week of consuming, she’s in Tub, England, a jaunt away from London, the place she lately moved together with her boyfriend. “You’ll be able to’t truly go into the baths,” she says, “which is unlucky, as a result of I introduced a swimsuit.”

Wednesday, January 28
It’s negative-seven levels once I conclude my U.S. e book tour in South Bend, Indiana, and take the world’s smallest airplane to my connection by way of Chicago. At O’Hare, I order a muffin, eat the highest, and discard the underside whereas looking the Hudson Information e book part for titles by “Madeline Money.” I discover Malcolm Gladwell and James Patterson however no Madeline Money.

I purchase a bottle of water, a carton of duty-free cigarettes, and a few American trinkets for associates overseas like an on-leave GI. I board a normal-size airplane to London and eat the complimentary Biscoff cookie. My seatmate laughs loudly on the movie Zootopia.

I sleep by way of the in-flight meal, land at Heathrow, and take the prepare to Liverpool Station. I purchase a Tesco ham sandwich “meal deal” for £5. The meat is a disconcerting shade of grey. I feel the expiration date was final Tuesday, however dates are written in a different way right here, so I can’t make certain.

I’ve been away for a month. Again at our flat, my boyfriend, Chris, says the foxes have been mating and make horrible noises at night time. Chris is making my favourite meal: stew. Stew is meat, carrots, potatoes, celery, and bone broth simmered over a protracted time frame with a aspect of bread. The meat is often lamb, however I’ve been feeling bizarre about consuming lamb — because the e book got here out, folks have been sending me plenty of cute lamb content material. I inform Chris the stew will make good fodder for my article. “I can’t consider they’re letting you write about meals,” he says. He asks if the journal is conscious of my culinary particularities, that I eat like a finicky little one. I inform him, “They are going to quickly discover out.”

Thursday, January 29
I greet my British buddy in an accent like Dick Van Dyke’s in Mary Poppins. We order a full English breakfast at a spot known as The Full English. My British buddy insists that is integral to my cultural assimilation. The plates include limp tomatoes and mushrooms and beans. Beans actually haven’t any enterprise being on a breakfast platter. I don’t perceive this affinity for beans. Maybe the bean firms had an extra of product and an incredible advertising and marketing group. I search for “Is there actually blood in blood sausage?” There may be.

I spend the afternoon ingesting espresso and writing within the workplace. I’ve by no means lived someplace with my very own workplace. My house in Chinatown is the scale of a small delivery container. I didn’t prepare dinner there. I ate Chinese language meals thrice every week from Wo Hop or Panda — not Panda Specific, simply Panda. Panda is open till 2 a.m. I’m on a first-name foundation with the proprietor and her two youngsters, who additionally work at Panda.

I write till it will get darkish. The climate in London is conducive to the writing course of; I’m by no means pulled away from my work by the stress to benefit from the outdoors world.

I benefit from the inside world with Chris. For dinner, we order Indian meals with Deliveroo, a British Uber Eats various. There are six Indian eating places in our neighborhood. I choose rooster tikka masala and garlic naan from the menu. Chris provides me a glance to convey that the order is bland and uninspired. I feed him rooster tikka masala “airplane” type and spill it on the couch. I search for “take away rooster tikka masala from cloth” and do as instructed. We sit at nighttime. We are attempting to keep away from utilizing an excessive amount of electrical energy as a result of we’re not completely certain pay the utility invoice. Exterior, there’s a noise like a girl screaming. I sit up and ask Chris if we must always name 911. “It’s the foxes,” says Chris. “And it’s 999 right here.”

Friday, January 30
Chris brings me espresso in mattress and says, “Don’t spill.” The espresso is made in a six-cup Bialetti moka pot. I inform Chris that upon request, Alfonso Bialetti was cremated and his ashes buried in a 12-cup moka pot. We take heed to the BBC to culturally assimilate. I spill espresso on the sheets and clear it up when Chris isn’t trying.

I resolve to go away the flat and work on my new novel on the café down the highway known as Millfields. I order a latte with “common milk.” The barista inquires, “What’s common milk?” I specify, “From a cow.” I order essentially the most elaborate pastry within the pastry case: a cardamom flower. The pastry resembles the underside of a horseshoe crab.

I stroll house and eat string cheese, which I peel like a palm tree whereas standing within the kitchen. I ask Chris a few piece of chain mail hanging from a hook. He says it’s for cleansing the cast-iron skillet. Issues have collected in my absence, issues through which one might put together meals like pans and saucers. When did we purchase all of these items? A carrot peeler. A Wüsthof chef’s knife. “Don’t contact that,” says Chris.

Chris and I am going to dinner at St. John. It seems like being in Sweeney Todd. We order the bone marrow to start out due to St. John’s bone marrow’s optimistic media reception. Chris excavates the calf bone with a tiny fork. I squint on the menu. It’s written in code: trotter, tripe, offal, rape greens. I try to fail to establish a meals merchandise with which I’m acquainted. The waiter says they’ve a particular tonight: braised saddleback and anchovy. I order it. Chris orders a roast eel, and it arrives coiled like a cinnamon roll on a mattress of root greens. “What’s saddleback?” I whisper. I worry I’ve inadvertently ordered horse.

Saturday, January 31
I am going to the River Cafe. The restaurant has an open kitchen. I’d learn that some Italian eating places have open kitchens so mobsters might watch their meals being ready to make sure it wasn’t poisoned.

I order the flourless chocolate cake and write some postcards to associates again house whereas I wait. My cake arrives unpoisoned. I purchase a bottle of £65 River Cafe olive oil. An eccentric billionaire I do know, who lives in Italy to keep away from taxes, swears by this olive oil and has it imported to his house in Venice. The bottle says “made in Tuscany,” which implies the billionaire is shopping for olive oil from Italy that’s packaged within the U.Ok. after which despatched again to Italy. I hope to be this rich in the future.

I eat a kabob on the way in which to my buddy’s Thirtieth-birthday celebration within the basement of a hair salon in Soho. I’ll flip 30 later this yr. I drink a espresso from Caffè Nero as a result of I don’t drink alcohol however wish to have a cup in my hand at events. A person who’s clearly on cocaine says, “Espresso? You’ll be up all night time!” I’ve a slice of birthday cake. The cake has fruit in it: The English tend of placing fruit of their baked items.

On the way in which house, I search for Goldfish crackers on the off-license, which is what bodegas are known as right here. They don’t have Goldfish and don’t appear to concentrate on Goldfish, pointing me towards a wall of canned tuna.

I really feel pangs of homesickness. I miss New York. I miss bodega snacks and pizza and Chinese language meals. I’m homesick for my 20s, for my associates, for my mom in California. And I’m homesick for one thing else too. One thing I can’t title.

I name an American buddy and attempt to clarify the inexplicable feeling. She suggests it is likely to be my “Saturn return,” that Saturn, which orbits the Earth each 29 years, has cycled again to the place it was once I was born; for some, this may be tough. I inform her that I don’t suppose I’m unhappy about Saturn. She says it’s extra of an existential shift, a transition into maturity. My weight loss program apart, I believed I had come to phrases with rising up. I’ve a profession and a associate and an accountant and a dentist. My American buddy says some issues can’t be intellectualized. They only should be felt. I’m up all night time considering. I snack on Oreos.

Sunday, February 1
I make espresso, browse the kitchen cupboards, and nibble small holes in varied meals gadgets just like the Very Hungry Caterpillar. A chunk of apple, cheese, peanut butter, bread.

I let a name from my mom roll to voice-mail. My mom used to make a concoction known as beans and cheese and rice, which is, particularly, beans, melted cheese, and rice. This was a Money-household staple. My mom’s mother and father have been Irish peasants, and that is generally mirrored in her cooking. Maybe I ought to change my stance on beans, seeing as they have been so integral to my childhood. I ponder if my transition into maturity can be simpler had I grown up consuming sashimi or pâté.

I meet some associates for an early drink at a wine bar of their selecting in East London. The waiter asks for my wine order. I ask for a Shirley Temple, and the waiter pushes fruitier wine varietals. I inform the waiter that I don’t drink, and the waiter provides me a appear like, Then why are you right here? I ask myself, Why are you right here?

The Shirley Temple arrives. I tie a knot within the cherry stem with my tongue and present the desk. It’s a crowd-pleaser. Then I excuse myself to go to the toilet, which is known as the john, and scroll on my cellphone. My buddy enters the john and asks, “What’s mistaken?” I shake my head. One thing about Saturn. I inform my buddy, “There’s a knot in my abdomen.” My buddy suggests I swallowed a cherry stem.

I learn that style is the sense largely intently related to reminiscence, so again at house, I order in New York–type pizza. Chris and I sit down to look at The Pitt, however we discover it’s not obtainable in London, so Chris  downloads one thing known as a VPN to skirt draconian U.Ok. tv legal guidelines. I take heed to the foxes having intercourse outdoors. Chris seems to be peaceable and glad. He’s youthful, so his Saturn hasn’t caught up with him but.

The pizza arrives. It doesn’t style just like the New York pizza I’m accustomed to, like Scarr’s or Prince Road. It’s one thing totally totally different. Not unhealthy, simply new.

EAT LIKE THE EXPERTS.

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